Learn Pattern Making – Level 1
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Free Pattern Making course, level 1
The pattern of a tunic and pair of trousers: In this part, we will begin with flat pattern making – How to use foundation patterns – Add volume and ease: Enlargements – How to bring volume: by the sides and the middle – Application of strings and beads for embellishment
Pattern making of a tunic
and matching pants
Note: The foundation pattern of the bodice, the pants (and soon the skirt) in your size were sent to you during the”introduction to pattern making” page. If you have not already requested and received it free of charge by email, please return to complete the request form on this page.
Use your bodice foundation pattern, move a dart and apply enlargements
Fashion Designer and Pattern Maker Anya Camau transfers her bodice foundation pattern on a white sheet of paper. She moves bust dart from shoulder to bust line with a dart rotation. She applies tunic and dresses enlargements and draw the tunic pattern front and back. Then she moves a dart to the side and set a zip in the middle of the back.
DIY: Report your bodice foundation pattern on a new sheet of paper (you’ve built and draw on cardboard this foundation pattern in this course’s introduction), then you follow Anya Camau’s example and draw your own tunic bodice pattern, front and back.
Note: Anya Camau works with upon a 38 size but you can work with a foundation pattern to your size by applying the same enlargements.
Important notice: Enlargements are values that are added to the block pattern (or foundation pattern) in certain places to add ease (volume added to the garment to be able to move and be comfortable in it, hence the name). There are several enlargements depending on the garment whose pattern is drawn, it will be necessary to add much more volume for a coat than for a straight dress for example. It is essential to apply these enlargements on the base to draw a real garment because the base is not a pattern in itself, it is only the shape of the body.
Your feedback about this course: See pictures of other pattern making passionate HERE
Draw the tunic sleeves pattern
Fashion Designer and Pattern Maker Anya Camau draws a classic sleeve pattern, called also a straight sleeve pattern. She explains how to measure then calculate the sleeve dimensions according to the body pattern front and back. Then she draws the sleeve step by step. Eventually, she explains how to slightly flare the sleeve bottom.
DIY: Take the necessary measurements on your tunic body pattern, then calculate the sleeve frame and draw your tunic sleeve. If you wish to, you flare the sleeve bottom as well.
Set the tunic embellishments
How to make trials and find out the tunic embellishments using two gilt cords and irregular glass beads. Pattern Making Anya Camau shows you how she does her trials and set her embellishments, then how she takes note of them on her pattern.
DIY: Take your tunic pattern and make embellishments trials until you find out the one you like most. Then take carefully note of them on your pattern.
Finishing up the tunic pattern
How to set important details on your pattern and what additional pieces you must draw under the embellishments. These pieces are useful to protect the wrong side of embellishments from any damage and to protect the skin against an itchy stabiliser as well, because the tunic is not lined.
DIY: Finish up your tunic pattern.
Flared pants pattern
With pattern maker and fashion designer Anya Camau learn how to use your pants foundation pattern, how to flare the bottom of the legs and how to set embellishments.
DIY: Draw your own pants pattern and set your own embellishments
Final check: Alterations
You’re finished with your tunic and pants pattern, congratulations! Here are some alterations that maybe useful according to your morphology:
- TUNIC: Add 1cm at cross-front and 0,5cm at cross-back if your bust measurement is above 95cm or if you wear breast implants.
- PANTS: If your pants goes inside your “buttock” or makes some unwanted folds at the front under the zip, “dig down” the crotch line of 1cm to 1,5cm (hollow out) without changing the crotch point (the jonction between the crotch seam and the 2 inner leg seams ). Make a fitting before you cut out seam allowances to check your alteration.
- PANTS: If the pants does not fit well and results uncomfortable at the crotch point, go down with this point along the leg of maximum 1cm.
- PANTS: If you have rather large calves, add 2cm on the sides of each piece (front and back) from the knee down to the hem. Take care to draw a nice curve when you join the sides of the knee up to the hip and up to the crotch.
You need some support? There’s something you don’t understand? Contact me, I’m here to help.
All the best,